Crete

Crete, island in the eastern Mediterranean Sea that is one of 13 administrative regions (periféreies) of Greece.

Crete is the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean and the largest of the islands forming part of modern Greece. It is relatively long and narrow, stretching for 160 miles (260 km) on its east-west axis and varying in width from 7.5 to 37 miles (12 to 60 km). The administrative centre is Irákleio (Heraklion; historically Candia), on the north coast. Area 3,218 square miles (8,336 square km). Pop. (2001) 594,368; (2011) 623,065.

Land

Crete is dominated by harsh mountains rising out of the sea. The island’s east-west mountainous range consists of four main groups that rise to the island’s highest point, Ídi mountain, 8,058 feet (2,456 metres) in elevation. To the west the Lefká (“White”) Mountains reach 8,045 feet (2,452 metres), and to the east the Díkti Mountains extend to 7,047 feet (2,148 metres) in elevation. Those mountains rise above the high upland plains of Nída, Omalós, and Lasíthi and are marked by several gorges, the best known of which is the Samariá Gorge. The gradually sloping northern coast provides several natural harbours and coastal plains, where such major towns as Chaniá (Khaniá; historically Canea), Réthymno (Réthimnon; historically Rhithymna), and Irákleio are located. The Mesara (Messára) Plain extends along the south-central part of the island for about 18 miles (29 km) and is Crete’s major expanse of flatlands. Sandy and pebble-strewn beaches dot the coastline. Crete has six small rivers as well as springs, seasonal watercourses and ponds, one natural freshwater lake (Lake Kournás), and several artificial lakes.

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Crete’s climate varies between temperate and subtropical, with an annual average precipitation of about 25 inches (640 mm) and hot dry summers. Winter temperatures are relatively mild. The air in the mountains is temperate and cool. Precipitation in that region is much higher than elsewhere on the island, and the mountains are often covered with snow in the winter (November to May), which may remain on the highest peaks throughout much of the year.

The Cretan landscape is dominated by characteristic Mediterranean scrub (maquis or garigue). Palm trees are intermittent along the coasts, and cedars can be found in the east. An array of plant species (notably flowers) thrive in the moderate climate, many of them native to the island. Hundreds of migratory bird species visit Crete, and there are some small wild animals. The agrími, or wild goat, is found in remote mountainous areas and on offshore islands, where it finds protection in wildlife reserves. Endemic species of wild plants are especially plentiful in and around the Samariá Gorge, the centrepiece of Samariá National Park, in the southern part of the island in Omalós about 26 miles (42 km) south of Chaniá.

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People

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The population consists almost entirely of Cretans who speak Greek and belong to the Greek Orthodox Church. English, German, or French are also spoken by many of the younger and urban Cretans. Since the 1970s the population has been shifting from rural areas to the three main cities—Irákleio, Chaniá, and Réthymno—where nearly half of the island’s population now resides (with nearly one-fourth in the Greater Irákleio area alone). Cretans are known for their hospitality and vitality, and much emphasis is placed on bonds between family members.

Economy

Unemployment is relatively low on Crete, with a large proportion of its labour force employed in the services sector, notably in occupations related to tourism. Tourism has replaced agriculture as the economic mainstay of the island and contributes a large proportion of the gross domestic product. Since the 1970s—when the number of tourists visiting the island increased dramatically—much of the traffic has come in the form of package tours for people who prefer to enjoy the sunshine and amenities of hotels along the coast rather than trekking in the mountains and staying in the smaller towns and villages. Cruise ships also provide a large proportion of tourists, while large numbers of summer residents and retirees from northern Europe also add to the population.

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Only about one-third of Crete’s total area can be cultivated, and its farmers have traditionally worked small patches of land with little help from mechanization. The one exception is the Mesara Plain, which is relatively well watered and is one of the few areas that can be farmed efficiently using large machinery, but even there the grain crops are for domestic consumption only. Despite its inefficient agriculture, Crete is one of Greece’s leading regions for producing olives and olive oil, grapes, vegetables (tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and zucchini), fruits (oranges), and carob beans (the flour made from which is used in a variety of foods). Most of that produce is exported. Grapes are used for both wines and raisins and as table grapes, and Crete’s olive trees provide more than one-third of the total national olive crop. In addition to vegetables and fruits, the island produces nuts, herbs, and honey, and for decades Cretans have prospered by using plastic hothouses to grow vegetables and flowers for the winter market in Europe. Stock breeding of sheep and goats is widespread, providing the island’s greatly esteemed yogurt as well as edible meat.

Because the Mediterranean has been overfished since the 1960s, fishing does not significantly contribute to the island’s economic prosperity, but it satisfies local needs.

Crete’s industry is largely confined to food-processing equipment (grape and olive presses), building materials (quarried stone and marble, processed lime, and building blocks), and a few ceramics, textiles, soap, leather, and beverage-bottling enterprises. Crete has to import all but the most basic items, including fuels.

Crete has a good road network. There are two international airports, one in Irákleio and the other in Chaniá, the cities where the island’s principal seaports are also located. A smaller airport in Siteía handles domestic flights. Smaller ports are in Réthymno and Áyios Nikólaos. Ferries operate between Crete and mainland Greece as well as other islands in the Aegean.