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Alborz Mountains

mountain range, Iran
Also known as: Albourz Mountains, Alburz Mountains, Elburs, Elburz Mountains, Reshteh-ye Kūhhā-ye Alborz(Show More)

Alborz Mountains, major mountain range in northern Iran, 560 miles (900 km) long, which serves as a defining landmark both geographically and in Iranian culture. The range, most broadly defined, extends in an arc eastward from the frontier with Azerbaijan southwest of the Caspian Sea to the Khorasan region of northeastern Iran, southeast of the Caspian Sea, where the range merges into the Aladagh, the more southerly of the two principal ranges there. More commonly, however, the westernmost part of the range is called the Talish (Talysh, Talesh, or Tavālesh) Range, or the Bogrov Dāgh. The Alborz Range, in its strictest sense, forms part of the central stretch of the chain, which also includes Iran’s two highest peaks, Mount Damavand and Mount Alam. The Alborz mountain system traverses virtually all of the northernmost portions of Iran from east to west.

Physical features

Geology

The Alborz chain is not as truly alpine (i.e., resembling the European Alps) in its structure as is often suggested. On the one hand, continental conditions regarding sedimentation are reflected by thick Devonian sandstones (about 360 to 415 million years old) and by Jurassic shales containing coal seams (about 145 to 200 million years old). On the other hand, marine conditions are reflected by strata dating to the boundary of the Carboniferous and Permian periods (about 300 million years old) that are composed mainly of limestones, as well as by very thick beds of green volcanic tuffs and lavas. Orogenic (mountain-building) phases of importance date from the Miocene and Pliocene epochs (between about 23 and 2.6 million years ago). Over large areas they produced only a loose folding; but in the Central Alborz a number of folds were formed into blocks thrust mainly southward but in places northward, with cores made of Paleozoic rocks (more than 250 million years old). Structurally and topographically, the Alborz system is less clearly defined on the southern than on the Caspian (northern) side of the chain, since various off-branching elements interconnect it on the southern side with the adjoining Iranian plateau.

Physiography and climate

The Western Alborz Range runs south-southeastward for 125 miles (200 km). Varying in width from 15 to 20 miles (24 to 32 km), it consists of a single asymmetric ridge, the long slope facing the Caspian. Few of its peaks approach or exceed 10,000 feet (3,000 meters) in height. There is a low pass west of Astara, near the Azerbaijan frontier, 5,000 feet (1,500 m) above sea level. The Sefid River, formed by the junction of the Qezel Owzan (Qisil Uzun) and Shahrud rivers, is the only river to cross the whole width of the chain: its gorge, giving access to the low pass of Qazvin, offers the best passage through the mountain chain, although by no means an easy one, between the Gilan region on the shores of the Caspian and the inland plateau to the south.

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The Central Alborz is 250 miles (400 km) long. East of the longitude of Tehran, which lies to the south of the range, it reaches a width of 75 miles (120 km). Located among the longitudinal valleys and ridges of the range are some important centers of settlement, with the towns of Deylaman, Razan, Kojur, and Namar located on the Caspian side and Shahrud, Lar, Damavand, and Firuzkuh on the southern side. There are likewise many gorges, by which the rivers find their way down one or another of the slopes. Only two passes allow a relatively easy crossing in a single ascent—those are the Kandovan Pass, between the Karaj and the Chalus rivers, and the Gaduk Pass, between the Hableh and the Tala rivers. The main divide runs generally south of the highest crest, which—with the exception of the towering and isolated cone of the extinct volcano Mount Damavand (18,386 feet [5,604 meters])—culminates in the glaciated massif of Takht-e Soleyman, which rises to more than 15,750 feet (4,800 meters).

The Eastern, or Shah, Alborz runs about 185 miles (300 km) in a northeasterly direction. Since two ranges branch off on its southern side and no compensatory elements appear on the northern side, its width dwindles to less than 30 miles (48 km). With the exception of the Shah Range proper (which reaches an elevation of 12,359 feet [3,767 meters]), the chain decreases in height toward the east. Longitudinal valleys are found less and less frequently east of the Shah. There are several passes at low elevations.

The Caspian and the inland, or southern, slopes of the Alborz differ markedly from each other in climatic and vegetational aspects. The Caspian slope has a distinctly humid climate, thanks to northerly air movements, enriched with moisture from the sea, which collide with the steep faces of the mountains to cause precipitation. The precipitation amounts to more than 40 inches (1,000 mm) annually in the lowlands of the Gilan region and is even more plentiful at higher elevations. Although it decreases toward the east, it still suffices to nourish a humid forest for the whole length of the chain on the Caspian side, where the soils are mostly of the brown-forest type. The natural vegetation of that slope grows in distinct zones: the luxuriant Hyrcanian forest on the lowest levels; a beech forest in the middle zone; and a magnificent oak forest from the elevation of 5,500 feet (1,700 meters) up to the levels where gaps in the divide allow the moist air to overflow into the inland basins. In some sheltered valleys there are extensive stands of wild cypress. Sheltered valleys adjacent to the Sefid River constitute the only olive-growing areas of note in Iran.

The southern slope of the Alborz, by direct contrast, shares the arid character of the Iranian plateau. Annual precipitation varies between 11 and 20 inches (280 and 500 mm) and is very irregular. The soils are mostly of the type associated with steppe (treeless, grassy, or shrubby) vegetation. The slope has become even more steppelike ever since the almost complete destruction of its original dry forest of junipers.

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Animal life

The Hyrcanian tigers for which the Caspian forests were famous are now extinct, but other wild cats, such as the leopard and the lynx, are still numerous in the Alborz. The bear, the wild boar, red and roe deer, the mouflon (wild mountain sheep), and the ibex are also present. Eagles and pheasants are notable among birds.

Settlement and economy

Although large areas of the Alborz Mountains are almost uninhabited—some being occupied only by nomads and others having been depleted by Turkmen raids in the 19th century—there are still several well-settled districts, including Deylaman, Alamut, Taleqan, and Larijan (at the foot of Mount Damavand). The landscape of the Caspian slopes is characterized by forest clearings with shingle-roofed loghouse villages and by lush fields and pastures. The landscape of the inland slopes is of the oasis type. Extensive grain cultivation occurs on both slopes, and cattle raising occurs on the Caspian side. Alpine pastures, seasonally dotted with flocks of sheep, cover an extensive zone yet higher. The land-distribution pattern prevailing in the Alborz includes a high proportion of small land ownership. The holdings often are much-fragmented.

Many of the traditional ways of livelihood of the mountaineers, including charcoal burning (now prohibited because of devastation of the forests), the transportation of goods (especially of rice and of charcoal for Tehran) by pack animals, and the working of hundreds of small coal mines, were displaced by the 20th-century modernization of Iran.

Apart from the main line of the trans-Iranian railroad, which links Tehran with Bandar-e Torkeman via the Gaduk Pass, there are several asphalted roads across parts of the Alborz. From west to east, those run between Ardabil and Astara, between Qazvin and Rasht, between Tehran and Chalus, between Tehran and Amol (via Damavand); between Tehran and Babol (via Firuzkuh), and between Shahrud and Gorgan (via Kotal-e Zardāneh Pass).

The wild (natural or original) forests of the Alborz Mountains cover more than 8,000,000 acres (3,000,000 hectares), of which some 3,000,000 acres can be exploited commercially for timber and other wood. There are also a few modern coal mines, as well as some deposits of iron and other ores. But most important is the water of the rivers, which is used for irrigation, for generating hydroelectric energy, and for supplying the fast-growing Tehran. Spectacular dams have been built. Those include the Sefid Rūd Dam, used for the irrigation of the Sefid river delta; the Karaj Dam and the Jajrud Dam, used mainly for supplying water to Tehran and partly for irrigation; and a series of dams on other rivers of the Mazandaran ostān (province) also used for irrigation.