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What is a textile?
A textile is any filament, fiber, or yarn that can be spun into fabric or cloth, as well as the resulting material itself. The term comes from the Latin word textilis and the French word texere, which means "to weave". Textiles include threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting, bonding, felting, or tufting.
Textiles are commonly associated with clothing and soft furnishings, which accounts for the great emphasis on style and design in textiles. They have many uses and enter into almost every aspect of modern life.
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What are textiles commonly made from?
Textiles are commonly made from both natural and synthetic fibers. Natural fibers like cotton from cotton plants, wool from sheep, flax, and silk have been used since ancient times.
The development of synthetic fibers in the late 19th century greatly expanded the range of materials available. Rayon, a regenerated fiber, is made from cellulose. Nylon and polyester are produced from chemicals. These synthetic fibers offer properties like high strength, elasticity, abrasion resistance, and resistance to chemicals, making them suitable for diverse applications.
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How are textiles created or produced?
Textiles are made from filaments, fibers, or yarn that can be converted into fabric or cloth. The methods of constructing textiles include interlacing, such as weaving or knitting, where yarns are converted into fabrics. Weaving, the major method of fabric production, combines warp and weft components to make a woven structure. Knitting interlocks a series of loops made from one or more yarns.
Nonwoven fabrics are also gaining importance and are produced by felting and bonding. Spinning, drawing out fibers and twisting them together to form yarn, is also a crucial process in textile production. Common spinning techniques include ring spinning, open-end (rotor) spinning, and air-jet spinning.
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What are natural and synthetic fibers in textiles?
Textiles are constructed from yarn made of natural or synthetic fibers. Natural fibers come from animals, vegetables, or minerals. Examples include cotton, wool, flax, jute, and silk. The use of natural fibers dates back to prehistoric times.
Synthetic fibers are man-made and produced entirely from chemical substances or from natural substances such as cellulose or protein. Rayon, nylon, and polyester are examples of synthetic fibers. These fibers are prized for their strength, toughness, and resistance to heat and mildew.
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What are some common uses of textiles in daily life?
Textiles are integral to modern life, appearing in clothing, including durable military and comfortable casual wear. They are also frequently found in household items like towels, sheets, curtains, carpets, and upholstery.
Beyond homes and apparel, textiles serve various functions in manufacturing, such as filtration and screening. They can also reinforce other materials in products like tires and inflatable items. Additionally, textiles are utilized in direct-use applications like awnings, tents, and outdoor furniture.
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How have textiles influenced cultures and societies throughout history?
Textiles have been essential to societies throughout history. Ancient handicrafts like nets and basketry evolved into weaving, with evidence dating back to Neolithic cultures around 5000 BCE.
Fabrics of cotton, silk, wool, and flax were used in ancient Egypt, India, and China. The English textile industry in the 13th and 14th centuries primarily used linen and wool, influenced by Flemish fullers and dyers. Silk weaving emerged in London and Norwich by 1455.
The rise of the cotton industry spurred mechanization and factory production. Textiles serve military purposes, including protective clothing for extreme conditions and space travel.
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textile, any filament, fibre, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth, and the resulting material itself.
The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning “to weave,” and it originally referred only to woven fabrics. It has, however, come to include fabrics produced by other methods. Thus, threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting, bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles. Some definitions of the term textile would also include those products obtained by the papermaking principle that have many of the properties associated with conventional fabrics.
This article surveys the development of textiles and the history and development of the textile industry. It treats in some detail the processes involved in the conversion of fibres to yarn, fabric construction, finishing operations applied to textiles, uses of textile materials, and the relationship between the producer and the consumer. Information about specific natural and synthetic textile fibres such as wool, mohair, nylon, and polyester are treated in separate articles.
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Development of textiles and the textile industry
From prehistoric times to the 19th century
Early textile production
Textile structures derive from two sources, ancient handicrafts and modern scientific invention. The earliest were nets, produced from one thread and employing a single repeated movement to form loops, and basketry, the interlacing of flexible reeds, cane, or other suitable materials. The production of net, also called limited thread work, has been practiced by many peoples, particularly in Africa and Peru. Examples of prehistoric textiles are extremely rare because of the perishability of fabrics. The earliest evidence of weaving, closely related to basketry, dates from Neolithic cultures of about 5000 bce. Weaving apparently preceded spinning of yarn; woven fabrics probably originated from basket weaving. Cotton, silk, wool, and flax fibres were used as textile materials in ancient Egypt; cotton was used in India by 3000 bce; and silk production is mentioned in Chinese chronicles dating to about the same period. The history of spinning technology will be touched on below in the section Production of yarn: Spinning and that of weaving technology in the section Production of fabric.
Early fabrics
Many fabrics produced by the simple early weaving procedures are of striking beauty and sophistication. Design and art forms are of great interest, and the range of patterns and colours is wide, with patterns produced in different parts of the world showing distinctive local features.
Yarns and cloth were dyed and printed from very early times. Specimens of dyed fabrics have been found in Roman ruins of the 2nd century bce; tie-and-dye effects decorated the silks of China in the Tang dynasty (618–907 ce); and there is evidence of production of printed textiles in India during the 4th century bce. Textiles found in Egypt also indicate a highly developed weaving craft by the 4th century ce, with many tapestries made from linen and wool. Persian textiles of very ancient origin include materials ranging from simple fabrics to luxurious carpets and tapestries.
Textiles in the Middle Ages
By the early Middle Ages certain Turkish tribes were skilled in the manufacture of carpets, felted cloths, towels, and rugs. In Mughal India (16th–18th century), and perhaps earlier, the fine muslins produced at Dhaka in Bengal were sometimes printed or painted. Despite the Muslim prohibition against representation of living things, richly patterned fabrics were made in Islamic lands.
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In Sicily after the Arab conquest in 827 ce, beautiful fabrics were produced in the palace workshops at Palermo. About 1130, skilled weavers who came to Palermo from Greece and Turkey produced elaborate fabrics of silk interlaced with gold.
Following the conquest of Sicily in 1266 by the French, the weavers fled to Italy; many settled in Lucca, which soon became well known for silk fabrics with patterns employing imaginative floral forms. In 1315 the Florentines captured Lucca, taking the Sicilian weavers to Florence, a centre for fine woven woollens from about 1100 and also believed to be producing velvet at this time. A high degree of artistic and technical skill was developed, with 16,000 workers employed in the silk industry and 30,000 in the wool industry at the close of the 15th century. By the middle of the 16th century a prosperous industry in velvets and brocades was also established in Genoa and Venice.
Textile industries of France and Germany
French manufacture of woven silks began in 1480, and in 1520 Francis I brought Italian and Flemish weavers to Fontainebleau to produce tapestry under the direction of the king’s weaver. Others were brought to weave silk in Lyon, eventually the centre of European silk manufacture. Until 1589 most of the elaborate fabrics in France were of Italian origin, but in that year Henry IV founded the royal carpet and tapestry factory at Savonnières. Flemish weavers were brought to France to produce tapestries in workshops set up by Jean Gobelin in the 16th century. By the time of Louis XIII (1610–43), French patterned fabrics showed a distinctive style based on symmetrical ornamental forms, lacelike in effect, perhaps derived from the highly regarded early Italian laces. In 1662 the French government, under Louis XIV, purchased the Gobelin factory in Paris. Rouen also became known for its textiles, with designs influenced by the work of Rouen potters. French textiles continued to advance in style and technique, and under Louis XVI (1774–93) design was refined, with Classical elements intermingled with the earlier floral patterns. The outbreak of the French Revolution in the 1790s interrupted the work of the weavers of Lyon, but the industry soon recovered.
Flanders and its neighbour Artois were early centres of production for luxurious textiles: Arras for silks and velvets; Ghent, Ypres, and Courtrai for linen damasks; and Arras and Brussels for tapestries. The damasks, characterized by heraldic motifs, were especially well known, and linen damasks of very high quality were produced in the 18th century. In Germany, Cologne was an important medieval cloth centre, renowned for orphrey webs (narrow cloths of gold bearing richly embroidered woven inscriptions and figures of saints).
Textile manufacture in England
English textiles of the 13th and 14th centuries were mainly of linen and wool, and the trade was influenced by Flemish fullers (finishers) and dyers. Silk was being woven in London and Norwich in 1455, and in 1564 Queen Elizabeth I granted a charter to Dutch and Flemish settlers in Norwich for production of damasks and flowered silks. The revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, renewing persecution of French Protestants, caused many weavers to move to England, settling in Norwich, Braintree, and London. The most important group of refugees, some 3,500, lived in Spitalfields, a London settlement that became the chief centre for fine silk damasks and brocades. These weavers produced silk fabrics of high quality and were known for their subtle use of fancy weaves and textures. Norwich was also famous for figured shawls of silk or wool.