pho

pho, Vietnamese dish made with broth, noodles, and meat. The most common protein found in pho is beef, usually thinly sliced. Beef tendon or tripe is sometimes used. Pho can be made with chicken, fish, pork, or tofu as well. The broth is usually bolstered by a series of spices, such as star anise, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, or coriander. Fish sauce may also be added to the broth. Traditional pho accoutrements include scallions, Thai basil, lime, bean sprouts, thinly sliced onion, and cilantro. It is often served with hoisin and sriracha sauces mixed in.

Pho is considered the national dish of Vietnam, being celebrated with a national “Day of Pho” on December 12. However, the dish can be found worldwide. The widely accepted argument for the etymology of pho is that the word came from the French feu, or “fire”—the French beef stew pot-au-feu is the most obvious precursor to the Vietnamese dish. However, it appears just as likely that the dish’s name evolved from the Vietnamese pronunciation of the Chinese fen, which means “flat rice noodle.”

Origins

Most food historians trace the origins of pho to the late 19th century, when Vietnam was colonized by the French. Prior to the arrival of French colonizers, the Vietnamese did not eat beef (though they would occasionally eat water buffalo). Meat soups, however, were not uncommon in Vietnam at the time. Pho experts point to the bánh đa cua, a crab soup served with flat rice noodles, and xáo, a soup made with vermicelli noodles and thinly sliced buffalo. It is thought that pho originated when Vietnamese villagers added French beef to the bánh đa cua, which likely occurred in northern Vietnam near the country’s capitol, Hanoi. In the modern era, pho made in Hanoi is considered to be the most quintessential version of the dish. Hanoi pho is generally broth-centred. Some street vendors refuse to add herbs because doing so would dilute the flavour.

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Developments

After the 1954 partition of Vietnam, following the region’s independence from France, many northern Vietnamese fled to South Vietnam, bringing pho with them. In the south, away from established culinary tradition, chefs started to experiment with pho, adding new ingredients. Saigon, in particular, because of its large Chinese and Cambodian populations, saw many variations of the dish appear as the 20th century progressed. Chinese rock sugar and white radish became staples in southern pho. Thai basil, fermented bean paste, and bean sprouts could also be added.

People continued to experiment with the building blocks of the dish too. Different shapes of noodles appeared in the dish. More cuts of meat began to be used in pho as well. Different parts of the cow—from boiled blood, to tripe, to brisket—can be served in the soup. Different cuts of chicken, such as gizzards and immature chicken eggs, are also regularly included. Broths built from different meats can also be found in Vietnam. Pho is often tweaked to fit each individual’s taste, and, for many Vietnamese, it is a very personal dish.

Pho became popular outside Vietnam after the Vietnam War. More than 2.5 million refugees resettled outside Vietnam, including more than 1 million in Canada and the United States. Over time, the incoming Vietnamese opened restaurants in their newfound communities, and, by the late 20th and early 21st centuries, pho had become more mainstream. Today there are numerous restaurants in countries worldwide that serve pho.