History of sneakers
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What are sneakers?
Sneakers are ubiquitous shoes with a rich history. The term "sneakers" came into use in the United States in the 1880s because the rubber soles allowed wearers to "sneak up" on others.
The Liverpool Rubber Company in England created sand shoes in the 1830s. These shoes, with canvas and rubber soles, were initially worn at beaches and later called plimsolls. Charles Goodyear's 1839 invention of vulcanized rubber made the material available for commercial use and a key feature of most sneakers. The U.S. Rubber Company began selling modified plimsolls with thicker rubber soles and laces in 1892. Today, sneakers have grown into a multibillion-dollar industry and a central part of daily life.
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How did sneakers get their name?
The term "sneakers" came into use in the United States in the 1880s because of the quietness of the rubber soles. The rubber soles allowed wearers to "sneak up" on others. Before the 1880s, the Liverpool Rubber Company in England created sand shoes with canvas and rubber soles in the 1830s. Many people consider these the first sneakers. Later, they were renamed plimsolls.
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When were the first sneakers made?
The first sneakers were created by the Liverpool Rubber Company in England during the 1830s. Known as sand shoes, these canvas-and-rubber-soled shoes were initially worn at beaches and later called plimsolls.
In 1839, Charles Goodyear invented vulcanized rubber, making the material available for commercial use and a key feature of most sneakers. By the 1880s, the term "sneakers" was used in the United States, referencing the quietness of the rubber soles. In 1892, the U.S. Rubber Company began selling sneakers based on the plimsoll design, featuring thicker rubber soles and laces.
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How did sneakers become popular for sports and daily use?
The journey of sneakers from simple beachwear to essential athletic gear and everyday fashion began with the invention of vulcanized rubber in 1839. In the 1830s, the Liverpool Rubber Company created sand shoes, the first sneakers, which were canvas with rubber soles. As recreational sports grew in popularity, so did the demand for suitable footwear, and by the 1880s, the term "sneakers" was coined.
The rise of Nike and Air Jordans in the 1980s, along with endorsements from athletes like Michael Jordan and hip-hop groups like Run-DMC, cemented sneakers as a pop culture phenomenon. Today, sneakers generate over $75 billion in sales worldwide.
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How have sneaker designs changed over time?
Sneaker designs have changed dramatically since the 1830s, when the Liverpool Rubber Company created the first sneakers, canvas shoes with rubber soles known as sand shoes or plimsolls. In 1839, the invention of vulcanized rubber allowed for commercial use of rubber, which became a key feature of most sneakers.
Innovations include the 1974 Waffle Trainer with its unique grid sole and the 1982 Reebok Freestyle, designed for aerobics. The 1980s saw the rise of basketball sneakers, especially after Michael Jordan signed with Nike in 1984; his Air Jordans became a pop culture phenomenon. By 1985, luxury fashion labels such as Gucci also began releasing sneakers. Today, collaborations with celebrities and high-end designers continue to shape sneaker culture.
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Why are sneakers important in fashion and culture today?
Sneakers have become a significant part of fashion and culture due to their evolution from simple rubber-soled shoes to a multibillion-dollar industry. The rise of sneaker culture gained momentum with endorsements from athletes like Michael Jordan and collaborations with hip-hop artists like Run-DMC, who popularized sneakers in music and fashion. Luxury fashion labels and designers such as Gucci, Prada, and Virgil Abloh further elevated sneakers' status by introducing high-end athletic shoes and iconic collaborations. Today, sneakers represent style, history, community, and collectibility, with rare pairs fetching millions at auctions, solidifying their importance in contemporary fashion and culture.
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Trainers, gym shoes, runners, tennis shoes. No matter what you call them, sneakers seem to be everywhere. But what’s the story behind these ubiquitous shoes? Read our timeline to discover how these simple shoes launched a multibillion-dollar industry and became a central part of daily life.
19th century
• 1839: Charles Goodyear invents vulcanized rubber, which makes the material available for commercial use. Rubber will become a key feature of most sneakers.
• 1830s: The Liverpool Rubber Company in England creates sand shoes, which are considered by many to be the first sneakers. The shoes are canvas with rubber soles and are initially worn at beaches. They are later renamed plimsolls.
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It was not until the 1850s that shoes were made specifically for right and left feet.
• 1860s: Croquet players begin wearing rubber-soled shoes. As recreational sports become increasingly popular, demand grows for appropriate footwear.
• 1880s: The term sneakers comes into usage in the United States. It is based on the quietness of the rubber soles, which enables wearers to “sneak up” on others.
• 1892: The U.S. Rubber Company begins selling sneakers that are modified versions of the plimsoll. These shoes have thicker rubber soles and laces.
20th century
Converse, Keds, Adidas, and Puma
• 1908: Marquise Converse founds the Converse Rubber Shoe Company in Boston. The business begins selling shoes the following year.
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• 1916: The U.S. Rubber Company introduces Keds, a brand of sneakers. The following year, Keds are first mass-produced. The shoes become especially popular with women.
• 1910s: Converse begins selling a shoe called the Non-Skid, specifically designed for the relatively new sport of basketball. The high-topped shoe features a capped toe. It becomes the company’s defining shoe, and in 1919 it is renamed the All-Star.
• 1920s: Keds names its classic shoe the Champion after the version becomes popular with tennis players, including Helen Wills.
• 1924: Adolf (“Adi”) Dassler begins making sports shoes in his mother’s house. His brother, Rudolf (“Rudi”) Dassler, joins the enterprise, and the two create Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory.
• 1934: Converse’s All-Stars are renamed Chuck Taylor’s All-Stars (now commonly called Chucks). Taylor is an American basketball player who worked for Converse and tirelessly promoted the All-Star shoe. It eventually gains huge popularity as an everyday shoe.
• 1936: At the Berlin Olympics, American sprinter Jesse Owens wears a pair of spiked running shoes designed by Adi Dassler. Owens ultimately wins four gold medals, and the media coverage makes Dassler’s shoes hugely popular.
A falling out between brothers Adi and Rudi Dassler led to the creation of Adidas and Puma.
• 1948: A rivalry develops between Adi and Rudi Dassler, and the two split their company. Rudi Dassler creates Ruda, which is later renamed Puma. Adi Dassler’s business later becomes Adidas.
•1949: Adi Dassler introduces the iconic three-stripe logo for Adidas.
Nike and the rise of sneaker culture
• 1964: Phil Knight and his former University of Oregon coach, Bill Bowerman, found the shoe business Blue Ribbon Sports. Three years later the duo release the Tiger Cortez.
• 1965: Adidas debuts the Stan Smith, a shoe known for its minimalist design. It notably features perforated holes instead of three stripes.
• early 1970s: Walt (“Clyde”) Frazier becomes the first NBA player with his own shoe: Puma’s suede Clyde.
•1971: Blue Ribbon Sports is renamed Nike, and the company adopts its iconic swoosh logo.
• 1976: Vans debuts the #95 (later called Era). A canvas shoe with a grippy sole, it becomes hugely popular with skateboarders.
• 1974: Nike’s groundbreaking Waffle Trainer hits store shelves. The shoe has a grid sole that Bowerman developed by experimenting with his wife’s waffle iron.
• 1982: Reebok begins selling its Freestyle shoe, which is specifically designed for aerobics. The shoe is a high-top with a Velcro strap around the ankle.
• 1982: Vans introduces a line of slip-on shoes that feature a black-and-white checkerboard pattern.
• 1982: New Balance begins selling its 990 shoe, the first sneaker to cost $100 (more than $325 in 2024).
• 1984: American basketball player Michael Jordan of the Chicago Bulls signs an endorsement contract with Nike and begins wearing the company’s shoes. Their partnership will make both Jordan and Nike international icons.
• 1984: Gucci becomes the first luxury fashion label to release a sneaker. The tennis shoe features red and green stripes.
1985: Air Jordans are first sold to the public. The shoes—known as Air Jordan 1—are designed by Peter Moore with input from Michael Jordan. The footwear becomes a pop culture phenomenon, and it helps launch shoe culture.
• 1985: The hip-hop group Run-DMC releases the song “My Adidas”; all the members wear the company’s Superstar shoe. That year Run-DMC signs with Adidas, becoming the first nonathletes to be paid to endorse sneakers. Run-DMC is at the forefront of the growing trend of musicians popularizing sneakers.
In 2023 a pair of Air Jordan 13s worn by Michael Jordan in game two of the 1998 NBA finals sold for $2.2 million.
• 1986: Nike’s Air Jordans II go on sale, and they are credited with creating a new market for sneakers that make a fashion statement.
• 1989: Reebok introduces a shoe that has a pump in the tongue. It is designed to create a better fit.
• 1995: American basketball player Sheryl Swoopes becomes the first female athlete to have a sneaker named after her, Nike Air Swoopes.
• 1996: The fashion house Prada debuts a high-end sneaker, and other brands soon begin selling their own luxury athletic shoes.
• 1997: Backed by the huge popularity of Air Jordans, Nike creates a separate subsidiary for its Jordan line of merchandise.
21st century
- Nike was almost called Dimension Six, a name suggested by Phil Knight.
- Avid sneaker collectors are known as “sneakerheads.”
- Michael Jordan was originally a fan of Adidas and wanted to sign with that company, not Nike.
- Reebok’s name is derived from rhebok (Afrikaans: reebok), an African antelope.
• 2001: Shoes with retractable wheels hit stores. They are known as Heelys.
• 2002: Hip-hop star Jay-Z works with Reebok on a shoe. It popularizes the trend of collaborations with nonathletes and further fuels sneaker culture.
• 2014: Rihanna becomes creative director of Puma and begins designing shoes for the company. She is credited with reviving Puma.
• 2017: American designer Virgil Abloh redesigns Air Jordan 1. The Off-White × Air Jordan 1 High OG “Chicago” becomes one of the most iconic shoe collaborations.
• 2020: World Athletics bans Nike’s Alphaflys from elite events, claiming the shoe provides an unfair advantage. The decision highlights the growing issue of “technology doping,” and Nike later modifies Alphaflys to meet World Athletics guidelines.
• 2023: It is estimated that sneakers generate more than $75 billion in sales worldwide.