swell wave
Quick Summary
A swell is a long, often massive wave or series of waves that continues after its cause, such as a gale, has ended. These are also known as wind waves that propagate after the wind has stopped or shifted. Swells are a type of gravity wave, meaning gravity is the force that restores the water surface to its equilibrium.12
The energy of a wave is proportional to the square of its amplitude, which is the maximum displacement of the water surface from its resting position. Swells can travel thousands of kilometers across the ocean, gradually diminishing in height due to energy loss from internal friction, air resistance, and divergence in their direction of propagation. As swells move into shallower water, their speed and wavelength decrease, but their period remains the same, leading to an increase in height and eventual breaking.2
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waveWind waves and swellWind waves are the wind-generated gravity waves. After the wind has abated or shifted or the waves have migrated away from the wind field, such waves continue to propagate as swell.
Read MoreWind waves are the wind-generated gravity waves. After the wind has abated or shifted or the waves have migrated away from the wind field, such waves continue to propagate as swell.
Read More- waveWind waves and swell
After becoming swell, the waves may travel thousands of kilometres over the ocean. This is particularly the case if the swell is from the large storms of moderate and high latitudes, whence it easily may travel into the subtropical and equatorial zones, and the swell of the…
Read MoreAfter becoming swell, the waves may travel thousands of kilometres over the ocean. This is particularly the case if the swell is from the large storms of moderate and high latitudes, whence it easily may travel into the subtropical and equatorial zones, and the swell of the…
Read More