…(Mitrópolis) nestles the 12th-century Mitrópolis, Áyios Elefthérios, one of three genuine Byzantine churches still surviving. It is red brick, like the others, and tiny. Its Pentelic marble is ruddied with age, and its outer walls are artfully, if promiscuously, decorated with Classical Greek tidbits: panels, votive tablets, and morsels of…
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