Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, vast natural area occupying the northeastern corner of the U.S. state of Alaska. It was established in 1960 as Arctic National Wildlife Range with an area of approximately 13,900 square miles (36,000 square km) and was expanded and renamed Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in 1980. After further territory was added to it in the 1980s, the refuge reached its present size of some 30,500 square miles (79,000 square km). It is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, with headquarters in Fairbanks. One of the great pristine and largely undisturbed wilderness areas of North America, the refuge has been the subject of much controversy because of the potential hydrocarbon reserves within it.

Natural environment

The refuge, which lies wholly north of the Arctic Circle, is bordered to the north by the Beaufort Sea of the Arctic Ocean. Yukon Flats National Wildlife Refuge adjoins it to the south, and Canada’s Ivvavik and Vuntut national parks in Yukon territory abut it to the east. Its relief is dominated by the eastern portion of the rugged Brooks Range and its foothills, the generally east-west-trending ridgeline of the mountains forming a drainage divide. The refuge encompasses the tallest mountains in the range, with individual peaks reaching elevations of some 8,500 to 9,000 feet (2,590 to 2,740 metres). In the north the mountains descend to the low-lying plain of the North Slope along the sea. The Porcupine River, a major tributary of the Yukon River, cuts southwestward through the southeastern portion of the refuge and receives waters of the Coleen, Sheenjek, and other rivers flowing southward from the refuge. The Canning River, flowing northward into the Arctic Ocean, constitutes the northwestern boundary of the refuge.

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge protects an enormous pristine high-latitude wilderness that encompasses several ecological zones. The high mountains constitute a cold alpine tundra region that supports hardy grasses, low shrubs, and heaths. To the south the mountains slope down through a mixed forest-tundra transition zone to boreal forest, dominated by conifers and birches and aspen, at lower elevations. To the north, as the elevation drops, the alpine tundra gives way to an Arctic tundra zone on the coastal plain. There the landscape is underlain by permafrost that thaws along the topmost layer during the short summer into an often marshy habitat; the typical vegetation there consists of dwarf trees, low shrubs, mosses and lichens, sedges and grasses, and wildflowers. The narrow coastal zone, consisting of lagoons, salt marshes, and barrier islands, is icebound for much of the year.

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A wide array of wildlife is found in those ecosystems, including nearly four dozen mammal species and some 200 species of birds. Notable among the larger terrestrial mammals are musk oxen, moose, gray wolves, red and Arctic foxes, black and brown (grizzly) bears, and, in the high mountains, Dall (or Dall’s) sheep (a relative of bighorn sheep). A remarkable annual event in the refuge is the migration of one of the Arctic’s major caribou herds, which heads northward from the Porcupine River basin to summer breeding grounds on the coastal plain and then back south in autumn; depending on the route taken, the round-trip can be up to 3,000 miles (4,800 km) long. Smaller mammals include snowshoe hares, shrews, mustelids such as martens and river otters, and a variety of rodents (e.g., marmots, voles, lemmings, and beavers). Coastal areas support polar bears and populations of seals, and whales migrate through the region during the fall.

The refuge’s birdlife is plentiful, although only a small number of species (including ptarmigans, owls, and woodpeckers) live there permanently. Much more typical are summer residents (some of which breed there), notably aquatic species (including ducks, geese, and loons), shorebirds such as plovers and sandpipers, gulls and terns, golden eagles, and kestrels and hawks. A large number of the birds sighted in the refuge are migratory, rare, or accidental visitors. The rivers, lakes, and coastal waters teem with fish, including Arctic grayling, whitefish, and Dolly Varden trout, a type of char. Insect life is abundant during the brief summer months, particularly hordes of biting mosquitoes and blackflies.