John Galliano

John Galliano (born November 28, 1960, Gibraltar) is a British fashion designer known for historically inspired, technically accomplished clothing presented through dramatic narrative spectacles. His appointments at Dior and Givenchy reflected a broader transformation of the luxury industry, as established Paris fashion houses increasingly relied on high-profile creative directors to reinterpret their heritage, generate publicity, and attract a new generation of consumers.

Early life, education, and Les Incroyables

Galliano, the son of a Spanish plumber, at age six moved with his family from Gibraltar to south London, where he was educated. At age 16 he left Wilson’s Grammar School for Boys, where he had been an undistinguished student, to study textile design at East London College. In 1980 he entered St. Martin’s School of Art, London, where he became enamored of historical costuming. His 1984 graduate collection, Les Incroyables, inspired by the French Revolution, was purchased straight off the college’s catwalk by the owner of an exclusive London fashion boutique. After graduating with first-class honors, Galliano set up a studio in a warehouse in London’s East End and established himself as the “boy wonder” of British fashion. He was British Fashion Council Designer of the Year in 1987 and 1994, and in 1991 he made his Paris catwalk debut.

Givenchy and Dior

Twice bankrupted, Galliano’s business was rescued in 1994 by John A. Bult, a Swiss-born New York-based investment banker, and Galliano was set up in an atelier near Place de la Bastille in Paris. In 1995 Galliano was appointed to replace Hubert de Givenchy, the refined founder of the house. Galliano revealed his first couture collection featuring sumptuous bouffant ball gowns, bowed dresses, and belted suits, and in 1995, for the third time and second consecutive year, he was named British Designer of the Year.

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In 1996 Galliano was appointed as designer in chief at Dior fashion house, while another British designer, Alexander McQueen, took over Galliano’s role at Givenchy. The luxury-goods conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), which owns both Givenchy and Dior, also bought Galliano’s company from Bult. Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH, hoped that the then 36-year-old Galliano would attract a younger clientele, not only to couture but also to the seasonal ready-to-wear lines produced by the house. Indeed, the arrival of Galliano heralded a fresh start for the beleaguered reputation of haute couture. He confessed, however, that Dior’s New Look—an ensemble that paired jackets with padded shoulders and ample ankle-length skirts—was closer to his own aesthetic than were the conservative linear designs of Givenchy. In 1997 he and McQueen jointly received the British Designer of the Year award.

Dismissal, conviction, and rehabilitation

In 2011 Galliano was fired from his role at Dior and his namesake fashion house when a video surfaced of him making antisemitic remarks. He was later found guilty by a French tribunal of “public insults based on origin, religious affiliation, race, or ethnicity” for two separate episodes in 2010 and 2011 at a bar near his home in Paris and received a suspended fine. His 2009 French Legion of Honor, the country’s highest honor, was revoked in 2012. During this time Galliano entered rehab for drug and alcohol addiction, and he later apologized for his comments. He was, nonetheless, largely shunned by the fashion world, though he notably designed model Kate Moss’s wedding gown in 2011. In 2013 he collaborated on Oscar de la Renta’s fall collection, and the following year he was named creative director of Maison Martin Margiela (the Belgian fashion house dropped Martin from its name in 2015), a post that he held until 2024.

Metropolitan Museum of Art controversy

In 2026 the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, announced that the upcoming major exhibition at the Costume Institute, the museum’s fashion department, and corresponding Met Gala theme, the department’s annual benefit, would focus on Galliano’s decades-long career. The retrospective would have made him only the third living fashion designer to receive such an honor. However, the plan sparked intense criticism from public figures, benefactors, and community members, despite meetings arranged by the museum where local Jewish leaders and rabbis acknowledged the sincerity of Galliano’s remorse. Following the outcry, Galliano chose to step back from the project, stating on Instagram, “After much reflection and discussion with all those involved, I have decided, with great sadness, that it is best for the exhibition not to take place at this time.” The Metropolitan Museum confirmed the exhibition’s cancellation and stated that a new theme would be selected at a later date.