Why was Alain Senderens criticized after using soy sauce in his cooking?

Alain Senderens faced harsh criticism for incorporating soy sauce into his cooking in 1978 because his actions were perceived as a threat to French culinary tradition. During this period, nouvelle cuisine was frequently attacked by established food critics on nationalist grounds, as many viewed the movement’s departure from classic French methods as an affront to the country's gastronomic heritage.

Following a trip to China, Senderens introduced the ingredient to his repertoire, an innovation that led one critic to "rip him to shreds" for deviating from established norms. This resistance reflected a broader tension within the culinary world, where traditionalists—such as Julia Child—argued that the movement’s experimental nature undermined the logic and grandeur of French haute cuisine.1