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How do waves, currents, tides, climate, and gravity shape coastal landforms?
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Coastal landforms are shaped by the interaction of various physical processes acting upon sediments and rocks.1
Primary Forces
- Waves and Currents: Waves distribute energy parallel to the shore, while longshore currents transport sediment along it. Coasts are often categorized as wave-dominated, tide-dominated, or mixed based on the balance of these forces.2
- Tides: Tides exert influence perpendicular to the coast through flooding and ebbing, often creating features like tidal flats and salt marshes in tide-dominated environments.2
Environmental and Structural Factors
- Climate: Climate influences landforms through rainfall, which transports sediment, and temperature, which drives physical weathering. In cold regions, shore ice can render a coast static by preventing wave impact. Wind also shapes the coast by generating waves and forming coastal dunes.3
- Gravity: Gravity acts directly through the downslope movement of material. This is particularly visible on cliffs, where wave-induced undercutting leads to the collapse of rock into the sea.3