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Why were gemstones in Indian jewelry often polished instead of extensively cut?

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jewelry Stomacher brooch with emeralds and enamel flowers on gold, from the treasure of the Virgin of Pilar, mid-17th century; in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

In the context of Indian jewelry, the preference for polishing gemstones rather than extensively cutting them was primarily driven by a desire to preserve the size and weight of the stones. While stonecutting was practiced throughout India, it was generally considered preferable not to decrease the size of a gem during the manufacturing process.1

This approach was deeply connected to the aesthetic and cultural values of the region. Indian jewelry design often prioritized a "many-hued rich effect," focusing on the overall composition and the collective impact of the piece rather than highlighting the brilliance of an individual, faceted stone. Furthermore, this style of ornamentation was closely linked to the religious symbolism associated with gems and their specific arrangements. By maintaining the stone's original size through polishing, jewelers could better achieve the desired polychromatic and lavish visual results that defined traditional Indian jewelry.12