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How is filigree made with fine metal wire?
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jewelry
Stomacher brooch with emeralds and enamel flowers on gold, from the treasure of the Virgin of Pilar, mid-17th century; in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Filigree is a delicate form of ornamental openwork created using fine, pliable threads of gold or silver wire.12
The process involves several key steps:
- Design: The intended pattern is first mapped out on a model that matches the shape of the final piece, whether it is intended to be an openwork design without a background or a decoration to be applied to a metal surface.2
- Shaping: Artisans manipulate the fine metal threads by curling, twisting, or plaiting them into the desired intricate forms. The wire used can be smooth, fashioned into a ropelike plait, or even shaped into small hemispheres.12
- Assembly: The shaped wires are arranged according to the design. If the filigree is to be applied to a metal groundwork, it is positioned accordingly.12
- Joining: The final step is soldering or welding the wires at their points of contact with each other and, if applicable, to the underlying metal surface to secure the structure.12
A more complex variation, known as granulated filigree, incorporates wire shaped into beads.2