How did the discoveries of Pompeii and Herculaneum influence 18th-century jewelry styles?

The archaeological excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum during the final 30 years of the 18th century profoundly transformed European decorative tastes. These discoveries shifted the artistic focus toward Classical ideals of harmony, leading to the emergence of the Neoclassical style in jewelry design.1

This movement marked a decisive departure from the curved lines and ornate complexity of earlier periods. In their place, jewelry adopted a greater simplicity and a new severity of composition, characterized by the following changes:

• Decorative Motifs: Designs began to incorporate motifs directly inspired by Greek and Roman models.1
• Revival of Cameos: The cameo returned to fashion as a central element of the new aesthetic.1
• Wedgwood’s Influence: The pottery manufacturer Josiah Wedgwood played a key role in popularizing these forms. He collaborated with sculptors like John Flaxman to produce relief plaques in white paste on colored backgrounds. These plaques, framed in gold, were widely utilized in various jewelry pieces, including medallions, bracelets, rings, and diadems.1